Saturday, September 29, 2007

my website is back!

*news flash*, my artist's website is now back online.

www.andreepouliot.com

You will also be able to view my animation piece, " I Dreamt of India" there.
My apologies to those of you who couldn't access it for a few months. I now have a new server
here in Delhi, so stand by for updates, and more creative work online!

people at work

Some pictures of how people work, where I live.


Rainy day boy, begging at the traffic light in Jaipur.



So young, and forced to dart amongst moving traffic to beg. No future to look forward to.

Heartbreaking.




















Siesta time on a hot afternoon.


Rickshaw drivers park in the shade
at the circle between Humayun's Tomb
and the Dargah of Hazrat Nizamuddin.
These guys work so hard, late into the night.


Exhausted.








Shop in Kinari Bazaar, Old Delhi.

The smiling shopkeeper sells articles for household shrines, this idol is of Baby Krishna, wearing magenta, today.


Tiny dresses in every colour of the rainbow, and jewelry, provide sets of new garments for every festival. The doll-sized thrones, in wood, or velvet, are also available.

Freindly.




A sign-painter's tiny shop in Jaipur.

The graphic in Hindi says "Pentr".The box on legs is his shop/storage, the board serves as doorstep, and the paint can is his client's seat. Samples of the lion and actors are set out daily. Jeetu's shop is squeezed beside the on-ramp of a 6 lane national highway.


Maybe something could be done to perk up the Queensway in Ottawa? Something tells me it would be regarded as graffiti, rather than as a respectable career.

Resourceful.

King Grasshopper, still eating!

Friday, September 21, 2007

elephants

One of my favourite things about living in India; ELEPHANTS!





It is possible for me to pick up the phone and hire and elephant like a taxi,
to come to my house, say, for a birthday party. The one below was ferrying visiting children around the outside of Humayuns' Tomb garden. Right out on the road with the whizzing scooters and cars. I feel so sorry for the poor beasts who work in the city. They are almost all middle-aged females ( deserving more respect!) and suffer many discomforts. Besides the noise and hard concrete under their cracked feet, the elephant has in fact, very tender skin, that needs daily bathing. Up to a decade or so ago, the Yamuna river, which flowed through the city, provided their bathing grounds. Now the "river" is in a state of appalling decay, more like a giant sewer, and I guess that the elephants still have to bathe there, in the black slimy fluid. Poor beasts. Also, last year the traditional elephant-keepers ghetto at the river bed was razed to the ground by the city. I know, because I went looking for it. Nobody seemed to know exactly where they are living now.

But, the demand for elephants to ferry bridegrooms and children around the city has not ceased, so they are out there, plodding along...


elephants heading for work, crossing the bridge, from the far side of the river



Mixed transport,
in my neighbourhood.










elephants parked outside the Udaipur City Palace. The delicately freckled skin is very prominent on this elder. I think she's snoozing...






Royal Elephants, fighting.





miniature paintings, from Udaipur City Palace Museum

Tuesday, September 11, 2007

welcome to my blog!

Dear Freinds,
Welcome to my blog , "Tales from the Belly of Delhi"
I hope you enjoy my stories and pictures, and do please comment.
In fact, I anticipate your encouragement, and go ahead and nag me if I slack off the postings!
If you are just joining me now, you will find my first posting at the bottom of the main page.


photo taken by Marie-France, in Orchha, Central India.








left, and above; Udaipur City Palace



In City Palace, Jaipur












A magnificent ruin of a haveli, in Ballimaran, in Old Delhi

Monday, September 10, 2007

Humayun's Tomb, restoration project

Stone work at Humayun's Tomb
distinctive speckly local red sandstone was used originally, and is still used today for restoration work.
This old pillar has a classic Mughal "chevron" pattern.

Some of the recent restoration work was criticized for being highly insensitive. They can do ( and usually do) a lot better job than this. Some contractor was skimming funds and buying cheap modern marble. Disgraceful!

Teams of stonemasons are contracted to carry out the painstaking carving work during the winter months, each piece of stone is carefully measured to fit. The water channel restoration alone required over 3000
meters of dressed sandstone. Sometimes the delicate "jali" screens have to be replaced. All is done with amazing precision. I will try to get a photo of how they transfer the intricate fretwork design to the stone, the
pattern is punched into a sheet of tin, and the design is "pounced" through tiny regular pinholes using charcoal or blueing powder. They carve within these templates.


Most of the stonemasons come from areas where stonework is traditional, especially Rajasthan.


Well, it's a job. A team of elder women get to work hammering bricks into dust, for the traditional mortar preparation. They were very cheery that day! I suppose working in a circle helps.


One day I came to the tomb with freinds, and we passed a group of masons setting stones with traditional mortar. I am familiar with this kind of mortar, when were began restoration on our own castle in Rajasthan, we idealistically began using exclusively the original recipie for traditional mortar. The mortar is a lovely suede-pink colour, and it contains, brick dust, powdered slaked lime, and a good portion of raw brown sugar, called "gur". Sometimes it also has crushed fenugreek seeds as a binder, and jute fibres.
I showed my freinds, telling them that you can taste the sugar in the mortar, and took a wee lick along with my freind Ruth. It was..hot.
I asked the masons, "what did you put in here?"
"We put acid",
"from what" , says I...
"from this"...and he showed us crushed used batteries!
So there's the modern binder for you.





Humayun's Tomb and garden on a foggy morning in October




Sunday, September 9, 2007

Humayun's Tomb

More about our neighbourhood; our home is situated around the corner from the beautiful Mughal tomb and garden of the Emperor Humayun.





From our roof we have a good view of the magnificent dome of 16th c. Mughal emperor Humayun’s tomb, set in a 30 acre garden that was recently restored by the Aga Khan foundation.
I call it "the Great-Grandfather of the Taj Mahal", as the innovative architectural design of Humayun's tomb later inspired that masterpiece of architectural grace, the Taj Mahal, which was built by his great-grandson, Emperor Shah Jehan.
Humayun suffered an accidental death, in 1556, after falling down the spiral stairs in his library, leaving his young son Akbar as heir apparent.

His widow, Haji Begum, began construction on the tomb in either 1565, or 1569 (sources disagree). She contracted a Persian architect, Mirak Mirza Ghiyas, to create the building in the Persian style, and he gave India it's first full double dome. Red sandstone outlined by white marble was a design feature indigenous to the subcontinent, as were the chattris (roof pavilions).


The interior is quite austere, but the surface designs of intricate geometrical stone inlay, play with the poetry of filtered light, entering from the multi-layered chiseled stone screens.




The morning sun lays a network of lace shadows in the eastern burial chambers, where the queen and other royal ladies are buried, and the setting sun sends molten gold jigsaw shapes across the west-facing starry-patterned floor. At each corner of the octagonal chamber, light filters in through three sets of separate carved screens, creating a somber dappled light.



The building is known as the "dormitory of the Mughals", as, beneath the massive plinth, hundreds of later royals lie buried. Each archway marks a burial chamber.
The complex contains 3000 meters of hand-chiseled sandstone water channels, pathways, fountains, several other beautiful tombs and a mosque. The Mughal garden is an earthly reflection of Paradise, divided into orderly quadrants, sectioned by sparkling running water in channels and water chutes and fountains, and ornamented by favoured trees and shrubs, cypress, neem, fig and other fruit trees, and flowering shrubs like jasmine.


The engineering entailed to manage the smooth flow of water by gravity from end to end of the 30 acre garden is mind-boggling. When the Aga Khan foundation undertook the extensive restoration project, much stonework, cleaning, and channel repair was required, but correction of the original water levels of the garden channels was minimal.


The peace and quiet in the garden is sublime.
Many residents of our neighbourhood enjoy early morning walks in the garden.



coming next; more about the restoration work, and other buildings in the complex

Monday, September 3, 2007

jungly heat and humidity

Delhi in maximum jungly heat and humidity.
Jungle (detail) by Andrée, watercolour and pastel
Delhi is extremely hot and humid right now. The monsoon is almost over, and after the cooling rain and clouds comes the blazing-sun-out steamer effect. Insect life (and other organisms) are in full glory, the trees and plants are fresh-bathed and flourishing, and one is soaked in sweat from the least activity. It is all gloriously GREEN. And damp.


It is mating season for peacocks, fanning their tails and filling the air with their clarion honks.
Here is the morning view from my window at Ninder Mahal, our castle in Rajasthan. Nature's most extravagant creature,
how did the peacock get designed thus? Over-the-top colour,
pattern, shine and glitter. A great National Bird for India.

I found a giant grasshopper last week at Ninder Mahal, sipping nectar by night on the Queen of the Night bush. The length of my longest finger, maybe 6", a King of Grasshoppers he was, and the most pop-art design you can imagine; chrome yellow and bright blue rings end to end! Just like a hallucination, or Alice in Wonderland. Then the details; delicate irridescent glassy wings, shaded yellow through coppery red, tiny sketched lines along legs, and stripey ringed antenna, and buggy blue eyes. The King was slowly picking up each tubular flower in both "hands", and sipping it back, as from a chalice. After a while he began to eat them slowly, like cucumbers.
(more about Ninder Mahal next post)